Starting Problems

[Tas131]

The starter solenoid serves 2 purposes, as it pulls in, the starter pinion is pushed out to the flywheel. When it pulls all the way in it acts as a high current switch, providing a current path to the starter motor windings. The contacts often end up being a high resistance to the starter current due to arcing. So the pinion will engage on the flywheel but sufficient current doesn't get through to the winding, causing the motor to turn slowly or not at all.

[january 131CL]

That was my problem, there was enough current to push the starting gears out but the connections at the `relay' function wasn't enough to even light-up a simple test lamp, much less the motor circuit-windings.

I have yet to do a dry-run. The batteries cost so much. With a separate starting relay turning the motor earlier, prevent the starting gears from locking into position and turning the flywheel?

[january 131CL]

Baja131, my pictures ;

[january 131CL]

Baja131, more;

[january 131CL]

Baja 131, rear and front elevation;

[theredx19]

Now have to throw my 2 cents in as the one question that was not asked are these emission control engines as they would be lower compression and hence need a lower wattage motor. The other thing not covered is the fact it is only when hot as the engine could be thightening up due to heat seizure or incorrect size pistons as I have seen this many a time as the starter is in a very open and cool running engine bay.

[Baja141]

January, I'll give you some tips on my headlight cover. My headlight cover was earlier blurred due to ageing when I bought the car, and 1 pc dropped when I run over humps   

So I cut a 6 mm thick acrylic sheet and screwed that to the flange of the reflector.
I mod it to look like a current model cars with clear lens . . it looks shiny man !! 
No worries about stone chips or dropping off ..

Now I have transferred these to another spare car and replaced that with 4 round lights, I still love 4 round headlights on 131  

[Thotos]

Your clear acrylic lenses might look cool and shiny but they'll certainly be illegal in the UK and (at least most of) Europe. The headlamp lenses give the beam a "pattern" which is a legal requirement. Modern cars with clear lenses use shaped reflectors to achieve the required pattern. But I suppose legal requirements in your part of the world are not so strict? 

[eugene]

Theo,Don't be jealous

[Baja141]

You're right Theo, the beam gives a spot pattern    so I have to install a pair of driving lights to spread the beam  .
The authorities are more concerned of those white/blue HID bulbs nowadays, those are too bright that disturb the oncoming traffic especially when the car is heavily loaded at the rear.

So for this "latest invention of acrylic lens"    , I think they are not too worried .. hopefully   

[Baja141]

Now the car is with round lights 

[january 131CL]

theredx19; thanks for the info. now I know why the need for higher battery power in Fiat cars in general. I suppose the Japanese cars have lower compression.

Baja141; I had the opportunity to buy a set of 4-round lights but one of the has a cracked lens. So I opted not to buy them. The round lamps make the car look sportier.

[january 131CL]

Baja141 : I'd like to suggest that should one can't find the original 4 round lamps set, one should opt for a set of Perodua Kenari lamps. They are in abundance at the scrap-yards. The Kenari lamp cluster are closer together as the inner smaller lamp crouch into the outer lamp. 

[Kennedy of Sixmilebridge]

I'm having starter problems too,
and I'm on my second starter in the last week...

She clicks but won't turn the engine,
but 1 time in 10 she goes straight in 
and starts up perfectly normally.

The solenoid on the original starter was filthy,
and upon fitting a "supposed" re-conditioned one,
the same antics have re-appeared.

Is there any chance it is an anomloy of the Fiat ignition switch
or am I barking up the wrong tree.

Is there any fluid I could clean the solenoid with.

Any industrial or good automotive electricians on this forum ?

and another one for ya, the radiator fan,
which is hardwired around the thermostat to run continusly,
cuts out at some point once the car is ran for a while.

I'm thinking a dud relay, but which one ?
I've had a few epsidoes of the water in the rad boiling up on me, that's why I changed the fan as I thought it was the problem, but it seems I was wrong.

Is there a modern high load one
(with a Motor factors or Halfords or Q.H. part number)
that might do the trick ?

[Thotos]

I'd say that if the solenoid clicks then the ignition switch is fine as the ignition switch only feeds power to the solenoid. There's a heavy wire running direct from the battery to the solenoid and it's that wire that feeds power via the solenoid to the starter motor.

So, make sure that wire running from the battery to the back of the solenoid is connected well at both the battery end and the solenoid end.

Once the solenoid clicks, it pushes the starter gear forward and should also give power to the starter for turning. The power is fed via two copper poles inside the solenoid which are 'bridged' by a piece of copper once the solenoid moves the gear forward. It's very common for these contacts inside the solenoid to get dirty and pitted causing bad contacts.

The best electrical contact cleaner on the planet is Amberlube (http://www.stanleysonline.co.uk/product-1820.htm). Believe me it's magical stuff when it comes to cleaning and lubricating electrical contacts. Also available as Survisol but I am not convinced Servisol is as good; I think it might be slightly diluted Amberlube.

You need to make sure the contacts inside the solenoid are good and clean and also need to make sure that the solenoid 'throw' is long enough for the internal contacts to make contact.

Once you are sure your solenoid is working fine, make sure the carbon brushes inside the starter motor are not worn and the motor commutator (where the brushes make contact) is clean (more use for Amberlube).

Good luck.