This was the problem I faced on new years day after a 100km classic car run. It was transported to my local garage who after employing the services of an auto electrician think that they have diagnosed a problem with the ignition switch.
The symptom initially was a healthy turn over with the key but no inclination to fire. Since the auto sparky had a play the car can be successfully started but as soon as the key is released it cuts out. To maintain the engine running the key must be kept pressed in against the lock and in a certain position.?
My garage have asked me to source a replacement ingition switch barrel and key (for a series 3 ideally) or failing that the wiring and plastic piece that fits to the aperture of the removed barrel. I've attached some pictures of the existing unit so that I can explain more easily.
Can anyone help with either a new or secondhand working ignition barrel and key - Ideally for a series 3 car? Many thanks. Failing that if just the plastic insert is available that may suffice.
Thanks in advance.
Ignition barrel with plastic insert removed.
Ignition barrel with plastic insert in place
Plastic insert removed.
On this picture you can see 3 brown pins - The 2 next to each other are spring loaded and return to their extended position when they are released. The 3rd is permanently depressed and does not spring back to an extended position. My mechanic thinks that this is the cause of the failure of the engine to keep running. At least it is worth replacing the apparently faulty part with a new one to see if the problem is fixed.
Sheer bolts also required with the ignition barrel although if not available I may be able to secure an alternative from a local engineering company.
If a complete series 2 switch is available the following picture shows the block connectors - They may be similar or different.
Author
