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Author Topic: Weber 32/36 DGV  (Read 12717 times)
Cabrio
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« on: July 19, 2011, 04:02:58 PM »
Just put a 32/35 DGV weber on my 1600 twin cam.
It was set with jets to suit Ford 1600 Capri or Sierra and surprise surprise the engine bogs  when given instant throttle at low/tickover  revs.
Has any one else tried this set up.
Regards
Cabrio
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TOAD
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« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2011, 04:13:10 PM »
If its an instant bog down, have a look at the Pump jet in case that's not doing its bit, when you accelerate this along with the little hols under the butterfly (Progression holes) are what gets you going.

Pump jet and diaphram for acceleration squirt.
Idle jet for Progression holes up to around 1800 I would Guess.

           Cool
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Cabrio
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« Reply #2 on: July 22, 2011, 01:55:24 PM »
Thanks Toad,
Could be the answer.
When the engine is not running the squirt seems OK, but when running it appears more of a dribble.
It is better also when cold. ie when on choke.
I've got it booked onto a rolling broad in early Aug so I will let you know for sure.

Regards Smithy.

PS has any one else tried this carb on a twin cam? It was recomended to me by Guy Croft who built the motor a few years back when it ran successfully on a 28/36 DCD3
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TOAD
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« Reply #3 on: July 22, 2011, 06:29:25 PM »
Good stuff that's the way to get it sorted properly,  I wondered if its getting enough fuel in the first place, you know fuel pump pore, or old filters?

Any how, I'll look out for the update later on.

 Regards

          Roger................

P.S   when its Dyno'd  don't forget to put the carb type and jet sizes on here for the others, it sound like a good conversion, in fact why not put down only mods you had to do to make it fit, cables and piping that sort of thing.
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Tas131
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« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2011, 08:46:19 AM »
Replace your filters, check float level and pump diaphragm before you take it to the rolling road. You don't want to be fixing little things like that while you're paying for dyno time.
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Mick.
Tasmania. Australia.
Red/grey series 2 (Daily driver)
Dark blue series 1 (Dismantled)
Light blue series 2 (Crashed then dismantled)
Metallic blue series 2 (Dismantled)
Cabrio
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« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2011, 11:25:32 PM »
Thanks Guys.I have an electric pump with adjustable king filter set a 4.5 psi.
It does sound like a pump prob, but the carb is brand new (Spanish so very possible!).
It is booked for the RR 2nd week in Aug. I will let you know of progress and info.
Smithy
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Cabrio
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« Reply #6 on: August 09, 2011, 09:37:01 PM »
Did the rolling road today. Engine is now a peach! The bogging problem was caused by the pump jet which Russ of Dynatune Nr Newark drilled out from 0.5mm to 0.65mm.
The dyno was showing perfect fuelling throughout the rev range and 82 hp at the rear wheels at 5000rpm.
Ignition Timing at 600rpm set to  10deg BTDC
The carb is a Weber 32/36DGV Jetted as follows
Primary Main Jet               1.4
Secondary Main Jet          1.35
Primary Emulsion tube      F5
Secondary Emulsion tube  F6
Pimary Idle Jet                  0.55
Secondary Idle Jet            0.50
Pump jet                           0.65

This set up is as a Ford 1600 GT SOC pinto with the exception of the pump jet
Smithy


 
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TOAD
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« Reply #7 on: August 09, 2011, 11:00:12 PM »
  
  Now that's what you call a productive post, and ignition timing as well, brilliant.   Kiss

Is your engine otherwise standard ?
« Last Edit: August 09, 2011, 11:07:33 PM by TOAD » Logged
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Cabrio
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« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2011, 03:51:49 PM »
Engine internals are standard, but all polished and put together very carefully by Guy Croft.
 NB no reworking of head or change in CR

External cxhanges are
Electric fuel pump
Kenlowe Fan
Freeflow 4/2/1 stainless exhaust
Weber DGV carb with manual choke and no vacuum take off which bolted straight onto manifold.
Manual choke (Water feed from inlet manifold blanked off)
Non vacuum distributor with centifugal advance only

My next task to fit electronic ignition (anyone done that)
Also noisy 3rd gear so when I sort that I'll take a couple of pounds off the flywheel and fit a 5 speed box.

Cabrio (Smithy)
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TOAD
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« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2011, 04:05:43 PM »
If you have the later 1585Tc engine from a 131,  I think you can put the Marelli system from a 2.0Ltr superM straight in to your engine.  Dissy in the block straight in,  and the Coil/rev counter wires straight on.  The only bit I can't remember is if the alloy coil mount will go on the original 1600 cars studs.  I even had one of these working in a 1600 OHV in a 131S 1976

The Bosch system is more complected.

    Roger.......
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Cabrio
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« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2011, 04:24:00 PM »
Thanks Roger.  I'll look for one
Regards
Smithy
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TOAD
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« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2011, 06:42:14 PM »
Quote from: Cabrio on August 10, 2011, 04:24:00 PM
Thanks Roger.  I'll look for one
Regards
Smithy

THE WIRING WILL BE

The distributor will have a thick white wire and a black plug some times white, at the coil end.

The coil comes with and alloy heat sink, fins on it and a little IGN amp thing  under the coil.

Just connect the wires up as the original coil   + to +  and    -- to --  and push in the dissy plug  done
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