131mirafiori forum

Whats the best way to store your 131?(not outside of course).What if you live in a town or city and you don't have the storage space in your garage,but you do have room to place a steel container.Is it a good or bad idea to store a 131in a good insulated steel or aluminum container.Good dry storage is a must,but space sometimes is a big problem.What do the other members think about this!!!!,and could each member tell us how there cars are stored.Look forward to hearing other members comment's.Slan Eugene

The problem with tin storage containers is that they tend to "sweat" on the inside.  Whilst they protect from the elements and keep the rain and direct sunlight off the car, they tend to form condensation on the inside, which then drips onto whatever is inside it. Not really a long term solution I'd have thought.

My Abarth and orange Special are tucked up tight in a garage which has plenty of air flow. There are many schools of thought on this subject, but I prefer to keep my cars dry but in circulating air so that condensation has the least chance of forming.

Many people also store their cars under a soft cloth cover when in a garage to keep the dust off, but mine don't have that luxury. :-\

My Racing is currently stored under a breathable, weather proof cover outside, something that I am to change in the near future.

Hope this helps.

I'd agree with Simon that these containers might get damp inside so not really suitable for car storage. One solution to that would be to use a Carcoon (http://www.carcoon.co.uk/) which is a large plastic bag with a small fan to circulate air in it. Some ventilation will need to be provided in the container as well though.

Isn't there a problem with steel and aluminium being in close proximity? Cars that have the two metals in contact normally have rust problems due to the reaction of the two metals so I don't know if it's going to be a problem storing a steel car in an aluminium container. If we have any chemistry majors on this forum perhaps they can enlighten us on that.

Theo it is an electrolytic reaction that happens here but the 2 metals have to be in contact and you need an electrolyt such as water but it is nearly 15 years since i did physics ;D ;D ;D

its all about this stuff........Fe2  O3! ;)

It's well over 30 years since I did A-Lever Physics and even longer since I did O-Level Chemistry but I remember that Iron and Aluminium just don't like each other. In fact my dishwasher instructions say you should not have steel and aluminium utensils in the same wash! If these containers will be damp as Simon suggested (and I agreed) then there will be the water for the reaction to take place. What I don't know is if there needs to be contact between the metals or if close proximity is enough to get things going. I would have thought if you have to use a container it would be better to opt for a steel container rather than aluminium. But whatever one you choose, you must make sure it's well ventilated.

Dissimilar metal corrosion requires two metals close enough together to form a current path if an electrolyte is present, ie: a battery. The safest way to avoid it is to keep the car in a low humidity environment, not always easy or practical. That's why the yanks have their aircraft graveyards out in the desert. You can also reduce it by flooding everything with a water dispersal fluid, WD40 or similar, it stops moisture acting as an electrolyte.
I used to work on helicopters in a salt water environment. They had a magnesium air frame and to reduce corrosion were washed down inside and out weekly with a water dispersal fluid. Everything was also electrically bonded to keep the airframe at the same voltage potential to reduce current paths.

To keep a cars bodyshell in top condition, you need to install a water displacing cavity wax, on the inside of every panel, to prevent atmospheric moisture ever touching the organic coating (paintwork).

The "Dinitrol" automotive system is the very best. It is trusted by Airbus, and their bodyshells are expected to last up to 40 years, and not get new panels every 10 years or so because of rust.
Dinitrol works, and works better than anything else*

*Eexcept for sacrifical metal plating, (Galvanising)
but thin walled steel panels normally heat and thermal expansion buckle when being treated.

So if you cannot Galvanise your car, Dinitrol is the very best next choice if maintained properly.

The Dinitrol coating wears away upon contact with airbourne water, (it's supposed to, it's a water displacing compound) whether held in suspension, or out of suspension.

It's, in my opinion, better for a bit of cheapish wax to wear away, and need to be replaced every 5-7 years, than have to replace a steel panel, every 10-15 years.

By the way, electolytic corrosions electrolyte of choice in a standard car environment, is normal airborne moisture.

If you have any corrosion, fretting, exfoilation, chemical, electrolytical dis-similar metal corrosion, filiform corrosion, intergranular corrosion, stress corrosion questions, etc....
don't hesitate to ask.

None of the above however, exempts you from the responsibility of storing your classic in a humidity controlled environment

PHEW, I need a cup of tea after that boring sermon

I was waiting for you to have the last word on this thread Graham!!  ;)