Drivers door won't open

[Phil]

Hi All,

I could use a little help on this one.

The driver's door to my Super will not open from inside or out. The key works the lock ok, and activates the central locking so I can open all the other doors ok. Again operating the central locking from the N/S door all works ok except for the drivers which will not open.

The interior door handle is still connected to the lock as is the exterior door handle but both are seized solid. The interior door lock plunger is stuck in the down (locked) position no matter how much force I use.

I have removed the window glass seal and can see the lock mechanisms does anyone have any ideas how I can get the door catch to release? I would prefer not to remove the door card as it is perfect and I don't want to damage it if it can be avoided.

As always thanks for your help

[simon131]

Brings back memories of my 'old' 2000TC Super - XPE. The c/l used to play up all the time, especially as it got older.

The problem with the c/l motors is that they seize up. The other problem is that the cables that run from the foot well into the door via the door hinge chafe and break, which means that there is no power getting to the motor - which seems the more likely problem you have considering it was working one minute and not the next.

I must admit that often if you can lift the 'button' on the inside window cill just enough, whilst someone else tries the external handle, the door will open. If this still doesn't work the only real option is to remove the door card, disconnect the motor mechanism from the door lock and manually lift the lock. The thing is you need the door card off before you can do this and I've never taken a card off with the door closed - not sure that it's possible without damaging it.

[Phil]

Thanks for your reply Simon, I will keep doing battle with it.

[Phil]

I have manage to get the door card off with the door in situe and did not damage the card (I can't tell you how relieved I am). The cause of the problem is the central locking motor which is seized solid. Once I had uncliped the interior door hadle rod from the central locking motor rod the door open   I am one very releived person.

So all I need know is a new (old) central locking motor for the drivers door. Has any one got a central locking motor in their tock that you are willing to sell me? Would any one know if this is a part I could get from a factors?

Below are couple of photos, one of the door open and the little fecker that caused all the hassle, 3ma here we come

[simon131]

Glad that you got the door open Phil,

Well done for not damaging the door card.  

The bronze globe - which is actually the electric motor (solenoid) - can be dismantled from the plastic 'rack and pinion' assembly and cleaned. There are three little 'claws' on the bottom of the bronze outer case which can be carefully freed off and the casing can be slid off of the internal windings. You'll probably find it full of crud. Clean it out the best you can (I found good ole WD40 worked best ) and refit and I'm sure it'll be ok until you can find another better one.

Your mechanism here looks pretty good, but mine were gunked up with the black Crylagard sticky oily waxy goo which was supposed to stop the metalwork rusting, but just made things sticky and difficult to dismantle

I often had to strip the motor as I couldn't afford the price of a new one, and the simple fix above saw the locks working for quite a while before I had to repeat the process.

[Phil]

Thanks for the info Simon, I am going away for the weekend when I get back I will try your repair method, I will let you know how I get on.

[131DHOC]

be carefull in dismantling motor case, the inner part (induct) has very tiny copper wires clamped to poles that tend to break simply touching them. You should revise if you have any of them broken, as this corresponds to proportional loose of torque of the motor. Careful tin welding can be managed to restore original power, in any case BE CAREFUL with tin as it is prone to fill separation between polar expansions, and this will cause definitive motor failure.