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Author Topic: Bitch to start some times  (Read 33488 times)
106usj
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« on: December 13, 2009, 10:49:35 PM »

OK help
According to the 131 owner book the correct way to start the 131 with single carb auto choke is as follows.
1. Cold Start..
Ensure car is in nutural & depress clutch.
2.Depress accelerator pedal and release this will enable auto choke to come into operation.
3.Turn ignition key to AVV & release imediately engine fires...
I have tried the above many times on cold start & think she has only started first time once or twice since i got her.

1.Warm start..
When starting a warm engine simply operate the starter.
2.If engine is very hot fully depress the accelerator pedal and release gradually as soon as engine fires.Do not pump pedal as excessively rich mixture will form.

I have tried all above for cold start and hot start some times it works most times it does not.
She will always start but usually takes a bit of time wheather hot or cold and its a pain in the ass at petrol stations etc.Once she is running she is sweet.
Any ideas?? .I have fitted new plugs and am going to order new leads



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106usj
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« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2009, 11:06:02 PM »

And all of above was the same before i fitted the K&N......
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miro-1980
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« Reply #2 on: December 13, 2009, 11:13:56 PM »

OK help
According to the 131 owner book the correct way to start the 131 with single carb auto choke is as follows.
1. Cold Start..
Ensure car is in nutural & depress clutch.
2.Depress accelerator pedal and release this will enable auto choke to come into operation.
Pump her up few times to give her some fuel to run on.
3.Turn ignition key to AVV & release imediately engine fires...
I have tried the above many times on cold start & think she has only started first time once or twice since i got her.

1.Warm start..
When starting a warm engine simply operate the starter.
2.If engine is very hot fully depress the accelerator pedal and release gradually as soon as engine fires.Do not pump pedal as excessively rich mixture will form.

Try not to press the accelerator at all and just start her. It this does not work try the method suggested in the manual.

I have tried all above for cold start and hot start some times it works most times it does not.
She will always start but usually takes a bit of time wheather hot or cold and its a pain in the ass at petrol stations etc.Once she is running she is sweet.
Any ideas?? I have fitted new plugs and am going to order new leads.

Inspect all ignition connections, make sure the distributor cap and rotor are in good condition,  Make sure the timing is set right., and the points (if you have them) are in good condition and set to proper distance.  

If things are right  the method suggested by the manual is correct and should work.

If the plugs are new and correct it looks like you have either a connection problem of some sort (points, distributor cap, rotor, wiring, condenser) or most likely your timing is off.

Re Condenser - just replace it with a new one of the same rating! cost pennies and can be very unpredictable.  

A good bet is to inspect all elements and replace everything in doubt.

 Also note that there are only two possibilities : fuel or juice. Try juice first as this is easier and if this does not work look into the carb. Maybe your carburetor is not holding fuel and without it starting is not easy... To test it use a syringe and while starting have someone apply additional fuel into the  carb. If the car starts immediately you know fuel is the problem.  

But beware there maybe multiple reasons for the car refusing to start easily so doing full inspection of all elements and replacing/adjusting /fixing all elements is really a must.  


Let us know what you find.  Also , tell us what ignition do you have, what plugs, what engine , what carb ... etc. You 'd be surprised how the wrong plugs can make it hard to start.   

Miro

« Last Edit: December 13, 2009, 11:23:39 PM by miro-1980 » Logged

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106usj
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« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2009, 11:43:10 PM »

Ok Miro.
Thanks for info
I will try the simple solution of your start up procedure first in the morning.
Failing that i will get the listed info plug type etc.
Im never away from the car when im at home and wife thinks im obsessed with it.
So will post info when i sneak back to garage. Grin Grin
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miro-1980
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« Reply #4 on: December 14, 2009, 01:15:34 AM »

Im never away from the car when im at home and wife thinks im obsessed with it.
So will post info when i sneak back to garage. Grin Grin

Welcome to the club !!!

Miro
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« Reply #5 on: December 14, 2009, 01:18:24 PM »

Hello, a common falure in these cars is that the thermal elongating spring in the starter system tends to stuck if dirt and grease vapours have penetrated the box in which is placed. You'll find this box easily because is that aluminium piece that has two rubber pipes going in, besides the air filter, screwed to the carburettor. Unscrew carefully (it's aluminium), clean and degrease, inspect the idle variator which is a saw tooth aluminium blade, this is immediately besides the spring, and clean it. Don't touch the screw that allows regulation of the starter action because has yet been trimmed by fiat. You should control if rubber pipes are free from dirt too, your spring needs warm water to switch off the starter.
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parrish
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« Reply #6 on: December 14, 2009, 02:13:55 PM »

Auto chokes love them or hate them.

In my experience with Auto chokes and the way they operate.

1) From cold depress firmly to the fullest position the accelerator pedal, then release.
Do not, repeat do not attempt to press the accelerator again as in my experience this can result in the choke resetting to normal operations (Not on)
It is tempting to pump the carb but try to resisit and see how it goes.
2) Turn the key!

Yes i know it sounds simple but if the choke is working as it should the above will work.

Im not fully familiar with the carb but some carbs do have an excitor!! attached! not sure what it does but look for a single wire going to an electrical connection some where near the manifiold/carb if you have one make sure you get a small current when the ignition is on?

Steve


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« Reply #7 on: December 14, 2009, 03:49:32 PM »

From my experience one of the problems I have come across on more than one occasion is bits of instant gasket or gasket sealer that have broken away from where ever they were used and getting stuck in the auto choke pipe where it comes off the steel heater pipe below the exhaust manifold thus stopping the flow of hot water to the auto choke unit and causing it to stay on, this instant gasket and sealant can cause problems like this years later and there is no need to use it if the surfaces are cleaned properly, at most use some grease on the new gasket
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106usj
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« Reply #8 on: December 14, 2009, 05:28:24 PM »

Tried Miros start procedure today and had a slight improvment.
As requested info Miro.
Motor engine 131 B 2.OOO
Version 131 AK
Carb type 32 ADF 4 250
Spark plugs NKG R -BPR7ES
Orange 7mm high performance leads
Inter motor ignition coil with yellow high performance 8mm lead
Distriburator code ZZ4 1402 1A1
Air filter-K&N 57i high flow.

Plugs were fitted by previous owner jst before i got it they were new.When i removed them tonite they were dry black and sooty.
Meaning carb mixture settings are  wrong ?
Over ritch fuel mix?
 Undecided Undecided Undecided
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mirafioriman
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« Reply #9 on: December 14, 2009, 08:47:59 PM »

Black plugs could indicate a over rich mixture which could be adjustment or the choke not going off properly. It can also occur if the car has been run for a short time and not allowed to reach operating temperature. The best time to take the plugs out and inspect them then is after a good run when the engine has been fully warmed through.
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My name is David Hobbs and I currently own: Fiat 130 berlina, Fiat 131 Supermirafiori, Fiat 131 Panorama, Fiat 132 2000, Fiat Argenta, Mercedes 300SEL 6.3, 450 SEL 6.9 a 420 SEL, Citroen Xantia
106usj
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« Reply #10 on: December 14, 2009, 11:31:12 PM »

So what about that model type of NKG plug do you all think they are ok to leave in.
Also where is the best place to get new quality high performance silicone leads in UK and what brand ie BOSCH  Huh Huh
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mirafioriman
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« Reply #11 on: December 14, 2009, 11:37:40 PM »

The NGK plugs are fine to leave in if they are pretty new until the car is due a service. For leads there are a range available depending on how much you want to spend Roll Eyes
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My name is David Hobbs and I currently own: Fiat 130 berlina, Fiat 131 Supermirafiori, Fiat 131 Panorama, Fiat 132 2000, Fiat Argenta, Mercedes 300SEL 6.3, 450 SEL 6.9 a 420 SEL, Citroen Xantia
106usj
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« Reply #12 on: December 14, 2009, 11:55:16 PM »

Mirafioriman.
Got price for black 7mm competition electrosports made by Magnecor ?48.50 ?
I have not really looked into costs of leads in a long long time so not sure what to pay for a good quality make.
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mirafioriman
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« Reply #13 on: December 14, 2009, 11:58:24 PM »

Magnecor seem to be popular with the Ford boys and I think they have a pretty good reputation.

Sounds like a reasonable price Smiley
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My name is David Hobbs and I currently own: Fiat 130 berlina, Fiat 131 Supermirafiori, Fiat 131 Panorama, Fiat 132 2000, Fiat Argenta, Mercedes 300SEL 6.3, 450 SEL 6.9 a 420 SEL, Citroen Xantia
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« Reply #14 on: December 15, 2009, 02:53:47 AM »

NGK plugs should really be BP6ES (or BPR6ES but I don't like the resistor ones) but BPR7ES should also work fine. I find the Fiat Twin cam likes Champion N6YC (or N6YCC) plugs best. But I am puzzled with your coil. Do you not have the original Sport ignition electronic unit? They don't work too well with 'standard' coils that are meant to work with points which is what it seems to me you have in your car.
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Theo Kyriacou
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